Why go
The landscape is unlike anywhere else, and it is best seen from above at dawn, when dozens of hot air balloons drift over the valleys. On the ground, the rock-cut churches of the Goreme Open-Air Museum still hold their painted frescoes.
Beneath the surface are underground cities, dug over many levels, where communities once sheltered for weeks at a time.
When to go
April to June and September to October, for mild days and reliable flying weather. Summer is hot and dry. Winter is cold, sometimes snowy, and very beautiful, with more cancelled flights.
Where to base yourself
Goreme is the centre of things and the closest to the balloon launch sites. Uchisar, on a hill around a rock citadel, is quieter with wide views. Urgup is a proper town with good restaurants. Most of the better hotels are restored cave houses.
What we would build into your trip
A balloon flight on your first morning, leaving later mornings as backup. A guided walk through one of the valleys, a visit to an underground city, and an afternoon with a potter in Avanos on the river.
Good to know
Balloons fly only when the wind allows, and cancellations are common, so stay at least three nights. Cave rooms vary a great deal in light and layout; we choose the specific room, not only the hotel.