Why go
La Paz is the calm counterpart to Los Cabos. The town has a long seafront promenade, good seafood and very little fuss. Offshore, Isla Espiritu Santo is a protected island of red rock and pale beaches, and the sea lion colony at its northern tip lets you swim alongside the pups.
Balandra, a shallow bay north of town, is regularly named among the most beautiful beaches in Mexico.
When to go
October to May. Whale sharks are usually in the bay from autumn to spring, and winter brings grey whales to the Pacific lagoons across the peninsula. Summer is very hot, with warm clear water for diving.
Where to base yourself
In town, near the promenade, for restaurants and evening walks. For more space, the marina and resort area a few minutes north has larger rooms and pools, and boats leave from the doorstep.
What we would build into your trip
A private boat day to Espiritu Santo with lunch on a beach, a whale shark swim with a licensed guide, and an early visit to Balandra before the day's entry limit is reached.
Good to know
La Paz has its own airport, and Los Cabos airport is about two hours away by road. Wildlife trips are regulated and numbers are capped, so the good operators book up.