Why go
The beaches of the south and west coasts are among the best in Hawaii for swimming, and the water between Maui, Lanai and Molokai fills with humpback whales each winter. Above it all stands Haleakala, a 10,000 foot volcano with a summit that looks like another planet.
The island also has range. Upcountry is cool farmland with ranches and lavender. The road to Hana winds along the wet north-east coast past waterfalls and black sand.
When to go
Any month works. Whales are here from about December to April, with January to March the peak. Mid December to March and the summer school holidays are the busiest and most expensive weeks. April, May, September and October are calmer and often better value, and the sea is at its warmest in early autumn.
Where to base yourself
Wailea, on the south coast, is the sunniest and driest part of the island, with a run of large resorts joined by a seafront path. Kaanapali, on the west coast, has a long beach and a livelier feel. Kapalua, further north, is greener, breezier and quieter, with golf and beautiful bays, and more passing showers.
For something different, add a night or two in Hana, or stay Upcountry for cool air and wide views.
What we would build into your trip
Sunrise or sunset at the summit of Haleakala, a morning boat to Molokini crater for snorkelling, and a whale watch in season on a small boat. We like to do the road to Hana with a driver, so everyone can look out of the window, and to leave an afternoon for Upcountry and the old cowboy town of Makawao.
Good to know
The fire of August 2023 destroyed most of historic Lahaina and took 102 lives. The town is rebuilding. Front Street reopened to traffic in August 2026, restaurants at its northern end and around the Cannery are open, and the famous banyan tree is growing back, though much of the old centre is still being rebuilt. Visitors are welcome, and the kindest thing to do is eat and shop at the businesses that have reopened and keep cameras away from the burned areas. The rest of West Maui, including Kaanapali and Kapalua, is fully open.
You will want a hire car. Sunrise at Haleakala needs a reservation made in advance, as does Waianapanapa State Park on the Hana road, and both sell out.