Why go
The old town still feels like a town. The seafront promenade is lined with sculpture, the Zona Romantica is full of small restaurants and galleries, and the Sierra Madre rises straight behind the rooftops.
Banderas Bay is one of the largest bays in Mexico. Humpback whales come here to calve in winter, and south of town there are beaches and villages reached only by boat.
When to go
November to April is dry and sunny. Whales are in the bay from roughly December to March. June to October is the rainy season: hot, humid and green, with afternoon storms and lower prices.
Where to base yourself
The Zona Romantica for walking to dinner. The hillside south of town for views and quiet. For large resort hotels and golf, look north around the bay to Punta Mita, about an hour away.
What we would build into your trip
A whale watching trip with a marine biologist in season, a boat day to a beach village such as Yelapa, and an evening food walk through the old town's taco stands with a local guide.
Good to know
The old town's streets are steep and cobbled. Pack flat shoes, and ask us about hotels with easy access if stairs are a concern.