Why go
Few American cities put this much nature within reach. Ferries cross Puget Sound from the downtown waterfront, Mount Rainier sits on the southern horizon on clear days, and the San Juan Islands are a short seaplane flight away.
In town, Pike Place Market is still a functioning market and worth an early morning. The glass at Chihuly Garden and Glass and the view from the Space Needle sit side by side at Seattle Center.
When to go
July to September is the dry, bright season and the best time for the water and the mountains. Spring and autumn are quieter and greener, with a real chance of rain. Winter is mild, grey and good value.
Where to base yourself
Downtown and the waterfront put the market, the ferries and the museums on foot. Capitol Hill has the liveliest restaurants and bars. Ballard, to the north, feels like a small harbour town and is good for a slower stay.
What we would build into your trip
A morning ferry to Bainbridge Island, an afternoon of tastings in Woodinville wine country, and a day at Mount Rainier with a driver so nobody has to watch the road. With more time, add two nights in the San Juans for whale watching.
Good to know
The city is hilly, so pack shoes for it. Coffee is taken seriously here; skip the queue at the famous first shop and ask your concierge for the roaster they actually use.