Why go
The harbour is the heart of it. Crossing on the Star Ferry costs almost nothing and is still the best short boat ride in Asia, and the view back from Victoria Peak explains the whole city in one look.
The food runs from dim sum trolleys and roast goose shops to some of the most decorated dining rooms in the world. Beyond the centre there is far more green than people expect: hiking trails, beaches, fishing villages and the outlying islands.
When to go
October to December is the sweet spot: dry, clear and warm without the humidity. January and February are cooler and good for walking. Spring is mild and often misty. May to September is hot, humid and wet, with a chance of typhoons, though hotel rates are lower.
Where to base yourself
Tsim Sha Tsui, on the Kowloon side, faces the Hong Kong Island skyline and has the classic harbour view from the room. Central and Admiralty, on the Island, put you among the offices, the smart restaurants and the bars, and suit a working trip.
The two sides are minutes apart by ferry or MTR, so the choice is about what you want to see from the window.
What we would build into your trip
A morning walk through Sheung Wan and Sham Shui Po with a local food guide, a proper dim sum lunch booked ahead, and an evening on a boat in the harbour. For a day out, the cable car to the Big Buddha on Lantau with the stilt village of Tai O, or the Dragon's Back trail ending at a beach.
With more time, add the M+ and Hong Kong Palace museums in West Kowloon, and a day in Macau.
Good to know
The Airport Express reaches Hong Kong station in 24 minutes. An Octopus card covers the MTR, trams, ferries and most small purchases. The best restaurants and hotel afternoon teas fill weeks ahead, so we book them before you fly.
The city is steep and humid for much of the year. Pack comfortable shoes and a light layer for the air conditioning.