Destination guide · Italy

Rome

Nearly three thousand years of city piled up in one place, where a Baroque fountain, a Roman temple and a very good plate of pasta are all on the same street. Rome is loud, crowded and worth every bit of the effort.

Hotels we have scored in Rome

Why go

No other city shows its whole history at once like this. The Colosseum and the Forum, the Pantheon, St Peter's and the Vatican Museums are all within a few miles of each other, and between them are the piazzas, fountains and churches that make simply walking around the main event.

The food is the other reason. Roman cooking is plain and confident: cacio e pepe, carbonara, fried artichokes, thin crisp pizza. A long lunch is part of the sightseeing.

When to go

April to early June and mid September to October have the best weather and the highest prices. July and August are very hot, and many Romans leave in August. November to March is cooler and quieter, with shorter queues and better rates, apart from Christmas and Easter.

Where to base yourself

For a first visit we like the area between the Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo and the Pantheon, where most of the grand hotels are and nearly everything is on foot. Via Veneto and the streets beside the Villa Borghese gardens are calmer and greener. Trastevere and Monti have more of a village feel, with smaller hotels and livelier evenings.

What we would build into your trip

An early-entry visit to the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel with a private guide, before the crowds. A morning at the Colosseum and Forum with an archaeologist, a timed slot at the Borghese Gallery, and a food walk through Testaccio or Trastevere. With more time, a day out to Tivoli for Hadrian's Villa and the gardens of Villa d'Este.

Good to know

The big sights need booking ahead. Colosseum, Vatican and Borghese tickets are timed and sell out, the Pantheon now needs a ticket, and since February 2026 visitors pay 2 euros to step down to the edge of the Trevi Fountain during the day.

The centre is cobbled and best seen on foot, so pack comfortable shoes. Shoulders and knees must be covered in churches, St Peter's included. Good restaurants fill up, and we book dinner before you travel.

Last updated October 2026.

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